Tips And Techniques

My Stitch Area

A number of people have seen my stitching area in my home and said that I should show it so that other stitchers can see how I stitch because it is a very effective and efficient way to work on a pattern, so I have posted the images below in hopes that it will be of help to some.

Please note that this is the best technique for working not only my patterns but any large piece. It makes it very easy to find where you are. I highly recommend using this method. Another very useful tip is when you are working on a larger pattern, especially a multi-page pattern, as you stitch it is sometimes hard to remember what symbols have not been worked on that page. I have found that as I stitch a color if I stick one of the map pins, one with a different colored head, on a symbol that I still have not worked I can easily know what the next color to stitch is. You can do this with as many colors and symbols as you want and as you stitch a symbol you remove the pin. 

In this image you can see my pattern stand. It is not available commercially as I made it myself out of stainless steel. However, a similar one would be very easy to put together using wood. You can see that one of the pages for my pattern of White Tiger is mounted on the foam that covers the stand. You will also notice the on the right side of the page there are six little dots down the sides and one in the center of these. The little dots are straight pins that have the colored balls on them and what I have done is spaced these pins ten (10) stitches apart and the pin in between them indicates the row that I am working on. I work one color from top to bottom within that grid and then I move one of the rows of pins over, again ten (10) stitches and do the same within that grid until I have worked that color all the way across the page and then I do the same for the next color and so on until the entire page has been totally finished.

This image is another one in which you can see a larger stand that I have, again that I made out of stainless steel, it weighs a ton, and I use this one for larger patterns and the carded threads are the colors that are being used at the time. You will also notice that I have a goose neck lamp to give me good lighting and it is, because I am left handed , situated on my right side so that there is no shadow cast on my work while I stitch.

This image is just a view of the whole area and my television is situated on the opposite wall so that I can be very comfortable while I stitch and I can watch the television at the same time. The key to a comfortable experience is how you set up your stitching area, trying to make it as efficient as possible. Comfort and ease make stitching very relaxing and a lot more enjoyable.

Getting Started

In order to determine the size of your finished piece you take the stitch count of your pattern and divide each one, vertically and horizontally, by the thread count of the mesh you are intending to use. As an example suppose you are planning to use 14 ct. mesh and the stitch count of the pattern is 140 stitches by 280 stitches. You would divide the 140 by the 14 which equals 10, and you would divide the 280 by 14 which equals 20. This would give you the size ( 10 x 20 ) of the stitched area of your piece. It is recommended that you add 3 inches to all outside edges of your mesh to allow for framing. In this example you would require a piece of 14 ct. mesh 20 in. x 26 in. If you used 18 ct. mesh you would need a piece of mesh 13.77 in. x 21.55 in

Note that as the mesh thread count increases the size of the finished piece decreases. Therefore a finished piece stitched on 14 ct. mesh would be twice as big as the same piece stitched on 28 ct. mesh. The thread count is the number of stitches per inch which means the higher the thread count of the mesh gives more stitches per inch and the mesh gets finer as the thread count increases. Also note that the finer the mesh the finer the stitches which results in a much finer finished piece. It tends to take on the look of a real painting.

Finding the center of the Chart and the Mesh

To find the center of the chart, follow the arrows down from the top and in from the sides, where they meet in the middle of the pattern is the center of your chart. Occasionally some charts do not give the vertical and horizontal  stitch counts. As is the case with most charts the grid lines are defined and you will probably notice that each 10 square block is surrounded by a bold grid line. To find the center of these charts simply count the number of blocks of 10 squares plus any individual squares and divide that total in half, this would be done for both the horizontal and vertical counts. Then count that number of squares and mark it on the pattern, after this is done simply follow the arrows from the top and side and where they meet in the middle is again the center of your pattern. It is a good idea to mark this point with a highlighter pen so that the symbol underneath can still be seen.

To find the center of the mesh, fold in half vertically and then again horizontally and pinch the mesh at the point. This will create a cross in the center. This point can be lightly marked with a pencil, as long as the marked area is to be stitched.

Hoops and Stretcher Bars

It is a good idea to use either a hoop or stretcher bars when doing cross-stitch because it keeps the mesh taut. There are advantages and disadvantages to each. If you use a hoop and it is not big enough to leave the entire stitched area open, when you re-position it some of your stitched area will be under the rings of the hoop. This could damage the threads. Also if for some reason the mesh discolors from dust or smoke in the air or oils on your hands, you will notice the difference in color where the hoop was located. The advantage is that on a large piece it might be easier to use a smaller hoop so that the work area is smaller and easier to handle.

I personally prefer to use stretcher bars because the whole piece of mesh is stretched over them and masking tape is put around all sides in order to prevent fraying. They allow the entire stitched area to be visible and if the mesh should have any discoloration due to dust or smoke in the air, the entire mesh discolors. There should be no discoloration from the oils on your hands from holding the piece because the masking tape around the edges will protect the mesh, however it is recommended that you should wash your hands each time you begin to stitch. With the stretcher bars the mesh is not creased in any way.

The disadvantage to using the bars is that if you are working on a large piece they could make it cumbersome to work with.

Preparing your Floss

The floss is made up of six strands of thread and the number of threads you use is determined by the size of the mesh that you are working on. If you are using 14 ct. mesh you would use three strands of thread, and if you are working on smaller mesh you would use less strands. Ideally you want to use sufficient number of threads to ensure that no mesh is visible between the stitches. It should be noted that it you are working on a very small count mesh, the fewer number of threads will result in a fine , almost photographic appearance to the finished piece.

Cut the strands of floss to approximately 14-18 inches in length and carefully seperate each thread and then recombine them. This allows the thread to lay flat against the mesh instead of being a roll and helps to fill in the spaces between the stitches and gives each stitch a satiny appearance.

Beginning Stitching

Before you begin to stitch, decide on the color that you want to start with and prepare the floss. I have found that it is easier to start with the darkest colors first. Once you have chosen the color, begin counting from the center point on your mesh and pass the needle up through the mesh at the location of the first stitch leaving about a one inch tail on the under side, trapping it with your finger stitch over it and secure it with the first few stitches. Do not knot your threads in the back. Try to maintain a consistent tension on your thread, do not pull it too tight.

To finish off a thread, pass it under several stitches on the back of your piece and clip the excess. To start a new thread pass it through the existing stitches and carry on as before. If you move from one location to another do not carry the thread across the back of the piece as it could show through on the front, start stitching in the new location by trapping the thread from behind.

This tip I received from Chelsea. When you start stitching with a new thread whether it's your first or 100th there's a great way to secure the thread if you are using two strands of floss. (Will not work on hand dyed threads like Weeks Works)  First when you cut your threads double the length whether you like a shorter length or longer.  Then you separate the threads like usual.  Then instead of two you only take one thread.  Then you proceed to bring the two ends together.  Then you thread your needle with the two ends. Now you should have two threads with at loop at the end.  You then bring the needle up thru the  mesh but not completely thru.  Next you put you needle back into the mesh completing half the stitch.  You then can see that underneath the mesh you still have the loop and now the needle, which you take and put it thru the loop and pull snugly but not to disfigure the mesh.  This secures the thread with no tails that you have to hold and stitch over to secure.

I am underscoring this next tip because I think that it is one of the most important things to remember, and that is that when you count from the center of your chart to the location of your first stitch NEVER use the center point again. The reason for this is that should you have miscounted in any way, your first stitch will not be where it is supposed to be in relation to where it is on the pattern. Subsequently if you count again from the center, and count correctly these new stitches will not be where they should be in relation to your starting ones. I don't think that there is anything more frustrating than finding out that all of your stitches are out.

Eliminating Knots

Invariably you are going to get your thread knotting on itself in the back and with experience and consistent thread tension you will be able to feel this happen. One way to minimize knots is to, from time to time allow the needle to hang down and the thread will untwist itself. If you do happen to get a knot, and it will happen, and you are using a gentle tension, you can place two fingers at the back of the knot and slide them towards the loop. If for some reason the knot is very tight and you cannot slip it off, try and stitch the knot into the back of your work so that it doesn't show.

Pattern Stands

If you enjoy stitching while sitting in front of the television, at a table or outside on a nice sunny summers day, a simple pattern stand can be made that can be placed on the couch or a table beside you. It consists of a piece of 3/8 inch plywood cut to the desired size. I used a piece that was 13 inches wide by 17 inches high. For the base I used a piece of 1 in. x 8 in. wood 13 inches long and cut the edge of this piece at an angle so that the plywood could be attached to it with glue and screws. If you do not have access to any power tools to cut the material, must home improvement stores will cut the pieces for you at a nominal cost. Note that the angle cut should be such that the top of the plywood extends no further than the back of the base, otherwise it will tip over. After the plywood is attached to the base a piece of  foam about 2 inches thick and cut to the size of the plywood and attached with spray contact cement. This stand can be placed on the couch or a table with your pattern pinned to it making it very easy to read.

Stitching on Dark Colored Mesh

When stitching on black or any other dark colored mesh I have found that if you position a small lamp in front of your piece the light will show through the mesh and make it easier to see where the needle is being inserted.  The position of the lamp for a right-handed person should be offset to the left and for a left-handed person offset to the right, this avoids shadows from your stitching hand blocking the light.

I received a tip from June and she said that if you are stitching in a location where you are unable to utilize the lamp that putting a white towel or piece of old white sheet on your lap also helps to see the holes. Thank you June for this tip.

Marking Patterns

I know that some stitchers use colored pencil or pen to mark  the stitches that they have finished as they work through the pattern. The problem with  this is that if you have a pattern that, as I do, is part of a collection this practice destroys the pattern. With this stand you can use color headed pins to mark the area in which you are working. Four pins could be placed so as to form a block and a fifth pin used to indicate the stitch that you are working within that block. As you finish a block you use those pins to form another block to work within. By using the pins your pattern has tiny holes in it but it is not damaged and you would be able to use the same pattern if you chose to stitch it again.

Wip- Work In Progress

When I refer to work in progress, I am talking about the pieces that you have started and are working on. I have found that if you are working on a particularly intricate design that requires intense concentration, it is a good idea to have another piece on the go at the same time. You will, as with anything, have good days and bad days. Stitching days when no matter how hard you try nothing seems to work right. You might find that you are making repeated mistakes, and this would be a good time to put the piece down and switch to something else. This is where that other piece comes into play. Have a piece on the go that is very simple and does not require too much concentration.

I think that I mentioned this before, but I always have 10 to 12 pieces going at the same time, now I don't recommend that you do this, and the reason I do is for a number of reasons. One is that, and I think any stitcher will say the same thing, it is always a lot more fun to start a piece than it is to finish one, the other reason why I do it is simply because there are so many that I want to do. This might be a little too many but I do suggest that you have at least two pieces on the go at the same time. I think that you will find that you don't get as frustrated when trying to finish a piece, and that because of  being able to switch you will find that you are stitching more and both pieces get finished faster. 

It is important also to remember that if you do have multiple projects going at the same time that you set a limit to the number that you are working on, and this number should be based on what you feel comfortable with. If you have too many pieces going at the same time, it can be just as bad as just working on one, and could result in a feeling of being overwhelmed; and never go over the number that you have set. Only start a new piece when you have finished one.

If you have any tips, techniques or tricks that you would like to share with other stitchers please e-mail me and I will include them on this page.